Rock Climbing in Romania

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Details about Santinela Cheii

Access: This is the first sector you'll reach as you go along the country road from Rasnov.

Character: Mostly alpine routes, but here you can find also a few sport climbing lines.

Bolting: The alpine routes are on pitons. Sport climbing routes have rusty expansion bolts.

Photos of Santinela Cheii

Route List

Route details Height Grade Beauty
Route name
3LC 5A

This alpine route is also known as Rapelul Suspendat. The first p..

This alpine route is also known as Rapelul Suspendat. The first pitch is rather short. Start on a dihedral and then traverse left under a roof. Uncomfortable belay stance. In the second pitch climb for 30m upwards and to the left on solid pitons. The third pitch is short face climbing followed by a chimney. Belay stance shared with the third one from Sulfinelor route. Those two routes share the last three pitches. The fourth pitch 25m long, avoids a smooth face by its left side. In the fifth pitch also 25m long, you must free-climb a face rated at 5c and then follow a loose gully upwards and left. Belay stance at the upper end of the gully. In the last pitch climb by laybacking a crack (piton with sling) followed by a small bulge and then continue upwards and left. Last section until you reach the crest is easy terrain. Descent to the left following the path through the forest.





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28m 7a+

The grade is also considered to be a hard 7a. The first section i..

The grade is also considered to be a hard 7a. The first section is shared with Moldoveanu, then the route continues slightly to the right of Moldoveanu, along a dihedral with crack.





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6LC 5B

This is the second alpine route from left to right between Cezar ..

This is the second alpine route from left to right between Cezar Manea and Surplombele de Aur. Start the first pitch with a traverse to the left (you will see the first piton), then continue along a beautiful crack followed by a small overhang. Uncomfortable belay stance just above the overhang. In the second pitch climb the chimney and the slightly overhanging crack. You'll reach the crux of the route: a large crack without protection pieces. You must free-climb it and then traverse left to the belay stance. The third pitch has an easy start to a piton with a long sling. You'll do a difficult traverse to the left using the ladders (if you don't have ladders, you can use the big sling as aid). After the traverse you'll reach the belay stance (same as the third one from Moldoveanu) Those two routes share the last three pitches (see details on Moldoveanu route description).





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8LC 6A

This is one of the most well-known and climbed routes from Cheile..

This is one of the most well-known and climbed routes from Cheile Rasnoavei. The route is 200m long. Loose rock which overhangs almost on its entire length. To reach the base of the route, cross the river on the small wood bridge which can be easily seen, then climb the stony ramp to the amphitheatre base, where the rock has a yellowish color. The color of the rock inspired the name of the route which means The Golden Overhangs. Part of the route has been re-equipped by Mihai Atanasiu. The first pitch of 30m long follows a system of cracks and then continues over a series of overhangs. Belay stance using the ladders. This first pitch is bolted properly, so you can free-climb it. Its difficulty level is 7c. The second pitch starts with a short descent to the right and then follows a crack. Comfortable belay stance. The third pitch is the most difficult one. Start towards right (take care, because to your left side there are several pitons from an abandoned try) and follow a crack the ledge, traversing to the left the impressive wall and crossing the Surplombele de Aur route in its sixth belay stance. The via ferrata ends on the crest. Descend to the left by following the path that zigzags through the forest.





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1LC 5A?

Very old route. We don't recommend it. At its base there is a gre..

Very old route. We don't recommend it. At its base there is a green painted square.





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200m 3B

This via ferrata was equipped by Mihai Mandreanu. To reach the ba..

This via ferrata was equipped by Mihai Mandreanu. To reach the base of the route, cross the river on the small wood bridge and then climb the stony slope to the base of the Surplombele de Aur route. From here, start climbing upwards and right towards the ridge descending from the pillar to your right. Climb this ridge just under the impressive chimney, and then continue upwards on the face until you reach a ledge. Continue on the ledge, traversing to the left the impressive wall and crossing the Surplombele de Aur route in its sixth belay stance. The via ferrata ends on the crest. Descend to the left by following the path that zigzags through the forest.





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2LC 6b?

The route is located on the left side of the pillar right to Surp..

The route is located on the left side of the pillar right to Surplombele de Aur. Cross the river on the small wood bridge then climb the ledge with vegetation towards the base of the pillar. You will see figure 6 painted at route's base. Slabby face in the lower section, then steep climbing in the upper one.





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2LC 6b+?

Situated to the right of the previous route. Marked with figure 7..

Situated to the right of the previous route. Marked with figure 7 at its base. Same character as the route to its left, a bit harder though.





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15m 7a

100m after you exit from the gorge going upstream, on the right s..

100m after you exit from the gorge going upstream, on the right side of the road there is a small wall with the route called Bin Laden. Easy start, followed by laybacking on a crack, then climb the face on edges. The lower-off is just above a small ledge.





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