Rock Climbing in Romania

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Details about Faleza Mare

Character: This sector has the most beautiful climbs from this crag. The routes are very diverse, from vertical faces with good holds, to cracks and bulges. Most of the routes are long and sustained and some lines have extensions.

Bolting: The routes on the left are equipped with glued bolts. The ones of the central area are on new expansion bolts. The routes on the right side are on rusted expansion bolts and pitons. Re-bolting here is still in progress. Chain lower-offs.

Photos of Faleza Mare

Route List

Route details Height Grade Beauty
Route name
18m 6a+

Start on a slabby face and then continue on pockets and sidepulls..

Start on a slabby face and then continue on pockets and sidepulls until you reach a ledge (rest spot). Avoid the overhang by its left side and then continue upwards and right on the slabby face to the lower-off.





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25m 6b+

Same character as the route on its left, but the moves are a bit ..

Same character as the route on its left, but the moves are a bit harder.





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12m 6c

3 Nimat

Start a bit to the left of the first bolt. The direct variation o..

Start a bit to the left of the first bolt. The direct variation of the entrance is rated at 7a.





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25m 6c+

Extension over the upper bulge of Nimat.

Extension over the upper bulge of Nimat.





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25m 8a

5 Noroc!

Refference route for the 8a grade in this style. Climb a bulge on..

Refference route for the 8a grade in this style. Climb a bulge on poor side-pulls edges with dynamic moves in the lower part, then balance climbing on small holds in the upper section.





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22m 8a

Legendary route for romanian climbing. Rebolted. Difficult sequen..

Legendary route for romanian climbing. Rebolted. Difficult sequence in the upper part: a combination of side-pulls for the hand and poor foot holds.





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37m 5c

7 Clasic

Beautiful climb with constant moves along a large crack. From the..

Beautiful climb with constant moves along a large crack. From the suspended cave continue upwards and right to the lower-off. There is an extension which continues avoiding the overhang by its left.





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37m 7c

8 Rateu

Shares the lower section with Clasic. Belay station on the ledge...

Shares the lower section with Clasic. Belay station on the ledge. Climb directly the overhang and finish in the same lower-off as Clasic.





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37m ?

This is a variation a bit to the right of the upper section of Ra..

This is a variation a bit to the right of the upper section of Rateu route.





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37m ?

The right most variation of the upper section of Rateu.

The right most variation of the upper section of Rateu.





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20m 6c+

Start climbing the face on edges, then go up the sharp crack. Aft..

Start climbing the face on edges, then go up the sharp crack. After several easy moves you reach a resting place on a ledge. Long reaches on pockets in the last section.





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20m 7a

The first hard move is just above the ground, then continue on po..

The first hard move is just above the ground, then continue on pockets. The upper section is a hard one on shallow pockets, then a balance traverse to the left. Shares the lower-off with Clasic.





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20m 5c+

Climb on a wide crack with big ledges and sidepulls. Start upward..

Climb on a wide crack with big ledges and sidepulls. Start upwards and left and then continue up the vertical crack. When the crack ends, you have to traverse to the right (crux). The rest of the route is on big edges with a few long reaches.





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37m 8b

14 Dilem

Extension of Nea Caisa route.

Extension of Nea Caisa route.





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20m 6a+

Face climbing with balance moves on edges in first section, then ..

Face climbing with balance moves on edges in first section, then go upwards and right along good pockets. After one long reach move (crux) you get to a comfortable ledge (rest place). The last part of the route has easy moves on big edges upwards and left, sharing the lower-off with Nea Caisa.





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15m 7b

Face climbing on edges, then long reaches on one or two finger po..

Face climbing on edges, then long reaches on one or two finger pockets (crux). The route is harder for shorter climbers.





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15m 7c+

17 Neuron!

Hard first section with the crux after the third bolt. Reading th..

Hard first section with the crux after the third bolt. Reading the sequence is a test of using your imagination. The final part is endurance climbing on pockets.





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30m ?

Start from the top of Neuron!.

Start from the top of Neuron!.





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20m 5c

Start on big holds followed by a long reach move and then rest pl..

Start on big holds followed by a long reach move and then rest place on a ledge. Continue upwards the dihedral to your left. Some mobile protection may help. Finish on the top of the pillar to your left.





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35m 7a+




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