20%
60%
20%
0%
15'
90'
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*
60m
Limestone
Latitude: 45.558713°N
Longitude: 25.649053°E
Town: Brasov
Massif: Piatra Mare
Starting point: Dambul Morii[ 45.594751 °N | 25.637019° E ]
Finish point: Valea Sipotelor[ 45.558713 °N | 25.649053° E ]
Highlights: This new crag has been open by Dan Cristolovean in the spring of 2010 with the ocasion of Piatra Mare Climbing Open contest. You can stay overnight in one of the many chalets from Dambul Morii, or you can camp nearby in a tent, but take care how you store your food, because the bears shows no shyness.
Climbing: Most of the routes are steep, with heights between 10 and 30 metres. The routes character is diverse, featuring face or crack climbing along inspired lines.
Getting here: Go by car from Brasov on the national road DN in the direction of Bucharest. Several kilometres after the exit from Brasov, on the left side of the road you will see the Dambul Morii chalet. Turn left on the small bridge crossing the Timis River and then immediately turn right in the small asphalted parking place, where you can park your car (total driving time 15 minutes). From the parking place walk along the road towards Piatra Mare on the tourist trail marked with yellow stripe which goes through the Sapte Scari Canyon (40 min). The bridges from Sapte Scari Canyon are not so safe, therefore we recommend the trail which goes around the canyon (marked with red point). After passing the canyon, continue on the marked trail until the slope steepens (70 min). You will see on the left side of the trail two towers (the first one characterized by a rock fall in which the limestone has a yellowish colour). To avoid the unpleasant debris, follow the trail until you reach the second tower, and then climb to your left the steep slope until you reach the crag (90 min).
Bolting: All the routes are safely equipped with expansion bolts and chain lower-offs, the friendly bolting style being inspired by the Kalymnos bolting recommendations.
Sun: Turnul Mare and Turnul Mic are exposed towards East and in the sun during the morning. Mytos sector is West oriented and the sun is shining on the wall until the evening.
Rain: On rainy days the walls become wet quickly and not recommended for climbing in such conditions.
Seasons: You can climb here from spring to autumn, but the best season is the summer.
