Rock Climbing in Romania

Bolted by: A. Munteanu, A. Orheanu, C. Stoian, 2003.

Creasta Generalului route, also known as Santinela Cheii is one of the reference routes in the area. The total time for the entire climb is around 2 to 3 hours. Marked at its base with figure 5. Start the first pitch directly from the river bed and climb the chimney equipped with pitons. First belay stance is on the platform just above. In the second pitch climb the steep face on your left (which is very well bolted) and then free-climb on easy terrain until you reach a comfortable ledge. The third pitch goes over a dihedral with few pitons. Beautiful exit to the ledge above using bridging technique. The fourth pitch starts with face climbing and then follows the ascendant ledge upwards and right. In the fifth pitch climb the inclined chimney. Comfortably belay stance on a big ledge. From here you can descent by following the unmarked path to your left. If you decide to climb the entire route, you still have to climb another five pitches on very easy terrain, but with loose rock until you reach a prominent bulge marked with a cross. Descend on the unmarked path to your left, which zigzags through the forest back to the wall's base.

Bolted by: adrian MUnteanu, S. Băieş, 2003.

Start with bridging on big holds. Continue on sidepulls and underclings with technical moves (crux). One more move after the ledge and you reach the lower-off.

This is the left most route behind the refuge. First ascent made by Dan Vasilescu in the winter of 1974.

Bolted by: Dan Vasilescu First ascent by: Dan Vasilescu